A quick outline of my trip to New York:
Monday- Arrived at JFK. Got lost and confused trying to make my way to Manhattan. A friendly woman with her luggage unzipped in half-dozen places advised me to take the E line from D Station. Or something like that. An unfriendly woman screamed, "He just ran over my foot with his luggage and just kept on going!"
- Met B. at the hotel, then took the subway down to meet D. around Houston. Got lost trying to find her, but eventually zeroed in. We were unchanged in many ways after these dozen years. Ate at a very cozy Thai restaurant and then had beautiful drinks at Death & Co. She had a strawberry-jalapeno drink, B. had a hot toddy. Alcohol too strong for us but the cinnamon and lemon were tasty.
Tuesday- B. and I had lunch at Vynl (Cobb salad sandwich wrap) with a friend and associate of his. Then we ventured south by foot, and the tall tower of the Empire State Building called us. The ropes for the queue to ride to the top were strangely empty, so we wandered into the building and decided to pay the big bucks to see out the top. It was a beautiful, warm, clear day. There is no California majesty of landforms, but the spread of metal and concrete has its own intoxications.
- B., D., and I went to the Metropolitan Opera. This was partly a wonderful experience: a grand building, a beautiful theatre, steeply raked seats with a rail of subtitles right in front of you. And partly grueling: The four hours of
Giulio Cesare were practically unbearable: a little fine singing, mediocre sets and ridiculous costumes, an embarrassing mezzo warble, and terrible staging. As someone pointed out, "We've been doing this opera for hundreds of years, and this is the best we can come up with?"
Wednesday- Something about the time change, something about vacation, meant that I woke up perfectly refreshed . . . at 10:30 am.
- B. went off to a rehearsal, and I strolled down to the Ed Sullivan Theater to see about my David Letterman ticket. There was a bit of rigmarole, but I got the ticket in time to walk down to TKTS to look for tickets to a musical later that night. Got 2 for Angela Lansbury in the play
Deuce. Went back to Ed Sullivan and stood with a crowd awaiting the arrival of . . . Dave? Nicholas Cage? Paul Shaffer? Didn't matter.
- More rigmarole as the studio audience inched closer and closer to Dave. The taping was extraordinary. I was on the aisle in seat E1. Dave's three minutes of improv before the actual taping were glorious. I could watch the show every night.
- Left the dreamy sounds and lights of the Late Show, met B., and we had a quick bite to eat before
Deuce. Our tickets -- under $50 each -- were in the 7th row. The play began, and there was our favorite grandmother-sleuth and meat-pie baker. Lansbury and costar Marian Seldes were bewitching. The play itself was a mess -- no movement, no conflict, no direction, and the seriousness of the characters' past relationship was deeply wounded by the farcical sports announcers and heavy-handed narrator/fan.
Thursday
- B. met some old gurlfriends for lunch and gurltalk, so I strolled across the park and wandered through the Metropolitan Museum for several hours. I bought a notebook at the museum store and took notes on the artworks that struck me. Warhol doesn't usually excite, but the hugeness of Mao . . .
- Strolled back across the park to get dressed for the Chanticleer premiere, then took the subway back to the Met Museum. An hour before, there was already a sizable crowd lined up. Once inside the Temple of Dendur, I found a seat close to the front and right next to a seat marked "RESERVED - New York Times." The mass was beautiful -- criticized by the NYT for being a little to cohesive, given that five different contemporary composers composed its movements, its cohesion came as a delightful surprise to em. I had expected that it would sound like five composers trying to outdo the others -- not quite appropriate for a mass.
- Went to a restaurant afterward and sat a table away from
Richard Kind.
Friday - B. had to leave in the morning, so we got a little breakfast (passing Kevin Bacon on the way) and then I headed over to D.'s, who had left for Canada on Wednesday and graciously offered her apartment to me. Her apartment was so extraordinary -- filled with so many beautiful and complex objects, and truly looking like the home of a complex and healthy person (so unlike my own) -- that I had a fantasy of writing a series of poems based on all the pulsating objects (many of them her own creations). In my little notebook I wrote, "Apologia. I do not have eyes to see or mind to comprehend, but the home of a friend has poems and stories. A plate of jewels." That's as far as I got with my plan.
- I dropped off my things and headed way down south to a different TKTS, where I got tickets to
Grey Gardens for that night. Took the subway to Brooklyn to meet S., and got a turkey and cream-cheese croissant and coffee for $2.50. Possibly the best deal of my entire life. He showed me his apartment and neighborhood, and we took an above-ground train back into Manhattan. He took me to a Korean restaurant, where I tried kimchee for the first time, and then we went to the musical.
-
Grey Gardens was great. Truly great. These were professional and super-talented performers, an innovative set, great music, and a remarkable adaptation of the original documentary, including an entirely made-up first act of the Beale's in their heyday.
Saturday
- Got some breakfast at a cafe and talked to my mom on the phone for an hour or so while I walked through the park. Got a $20 standing room ticket for the Met's matinee of
Il trittico. I've referred to the experience as torture. Four hours of standing. The first two operas of the triptych were particularly painful -- a dumb old adultery cliche followed by a convent piece, where I'm supposed to be moved by a suicidal nun who dies of course with her arms flung out in a patch of cross-shaped lighting (and then her dead son reaches his arms out to her and then spreads them wide so he can be Jesus, too!). Stephanie Blythe's rich, un-put-on voice kept me there.
- Walked around a bit before an 8 o'clock performance of three Balanchine ballets --
Apollo,
Agon, and
Symphony in C -- at NYCB. A splendid seat, and I got a little choked up as the lights went down, and then was shocked to see Apollo there on stage. His jaw moved as the Stravinsky began and -- no, surely he's not chewing gum? And then his jaw moved again -- chewing gum?!? I'm not sure, but I was thrown out of that emotional place and didn't return until
Agon.
- Headed back to the Upper East Side and was surprised to have a voicemail from D., who had returned to the city, a little surprised to find my stuff still strewn about her apartment. We were happy to have some more time to visit and stayed up quite late chatting.
Sunday- D. and I went to the Guggenheim, exploring all its little curves and crannies. Fantastic pseudo-Impressionist pieces by Italian painters. We talked about the artworks and our lives, then went for brunch at a nearby diner. Said our goodbyes, and I headed off for the airport.